8 Tips for Traveling to Ireland

I lived in Ireland for two years while studying and teaching music, and I have also taken numerous additional trips, including a five-week research trip covering 1,300 miles of the west coast. These experiences, along with the fact that I'm an Irish flute teacher, mean people often ask me questions about traveling to Ireland.

So, for those interested in going to Ireland, I jotted down a few tips that I've accumulated along the way. This is not your average "places to see" list, but rather a set of practical (sometimes hard-won) tips that you may find important no matter where you choose to go.

1) Pack water-proof clothing.

While traveling in County Galway, a local once told me that they often see "all four seasons in a single day." This is true. It rains in Ireland. A lot. Often every day.

The best investment I have ever made for my travels in Ireland was a pair of water-resistant hiking boots. There were times out hiking when I was almost ankle-deep in mud, and those boots have been worth every penny.

Be sure to pack a water proof jacket. The same Galway local was adamant that water proof rain pants are also an essential part of any suitcase, because then "it doesn't matter if it's raining."

Sticking an umbrella into your suitcase might also be a good idea, although I honestly stopped using mine after the first few months in Ireland. It was often too windy for an umbrella and I was already water-proofed in my jacket anyways, so it tended to stay in my backpack.

2) Pack a lot of layers.

I'm a Mainer who grew up playing in snow from November until April. I know what cold is. I was still unprepared, however, for the cold in Ireland. Irish cold is a damp, rainy cold, the type of cold that permeates buildings and settles in your bones. In the heart of Irish winters, I would wear my coat to work at the music school and leave it on the entire time.

The key to weathering the Irish cold is to wear a lot of layers. This also gives you flexibility when the weather changes quickly, which it often does. I always wear a double layer of socks in Ireland and some combination of tee-shirts, flannel shirts, sweaters, fleece vests, and beanies. If you're a musician, fingerless gloves or wrist warmers are also very helpful.

If you're planning to be outside, bring extra socks. Nothing will make you colder faster than getting your feet wet and having no way to rectify that situation. If you own a hot water bottle, throw that in your suitcase too.

3) Don't try to drive around the island in a few days.

I once overheard a group of American tourists in a pub finalizing their plans to drive around the entire island in just four days. It really wasn't my business, but I desperately wanted to pull them aside and say, "Please don't do that."

Take it from someone who spent five weeks driving 1,300 miles of the west coast: do not underestimate how tiring and overwhelming it will be to drive on the opposite side of the road. The gear shift will be on the "wrong" side, there will be way too much car on your left, and your sense of proportion will be completely askew. I suppose you could make it if you drove around the island mostly on motorways, but that's not the best way to see Ireland. Small roads are the best way to see Ireland.

And when it comes to small roads, Google maps is wrong. It does not take two hours to get somewhere. It takes three, or maybe even four. Smaller roads are often twisty and narrow, with stone walls or ditches on either side and a lorry (truck) coming right at you. Roads can also be unmarked, or if you're in the west, signs may be in Irish while maps are in English. Which brings me to my next point...

4) Getting lost isn't a possibility, it's an eventuality.

Just embrace it now. Call it a form of exploration. Some of the most beautiful places I've been to in Ireland were places that I stumbled upon. If you get lost, don't panic. If you aren't trying to drive around the island in four days, then getting lost is fine. You'll get to where you need to be eventually. Stop and take photos, find a pub for lunch, take the time to pull over and consult your maps, or ask a local where you are.

*Hello cow. Can you tell me where I am, please?*

5) Your plans will probably change, and that is fine.

Just like getting lost, changing plans is another eventuality. The only predicable thing about the weather in Ireland is its unpredictability, and this may require you to take the ferry a different day or switch that hike to Tuesday instead. And weather aside, places that you want to see may not be open, schedules may not be running on time, or the bike you rented may get a flat tire.

Be willing to change your plans. Build empty space into your travels, keep your schedule malleable, and this won't feel stressful at all. Just roll with it.

6) The sense of time may be different in Ireland, but not the bus or ferry schedules.

I once showed up to a brunch "on time" while everyone else arrived two hours late. If you go to a session that ostensibly starts at eight o'clock, chances are people will start showing up at nine.

However, if you are catching a ferry or hopping on Bus Éireann, those might run closer to their timetables. I've missed the bus to Croagh when I was five minutes late, and I have definitely stayed an extra night on Inis Mór when the ferry back to Doolin left on the dot without me.

7) Order the full Irish breakfast.

If this is at all tempting to you, definitely do it. I was mostly vegetarian while living in Ireland, but that went out the window every time I had the opportunity to order a full Irish breakfast. Depending on where you are, a full Irish will usually include some combination of bacon (looks like ham), sausage, eggs, black pudding (it's up to you whether to research this ahead of time), toast, baked beans, fried tomatoes, and even mushrooms, all washed down with cups of tea. It's divine.

8) Be respectful if you want to join sessions.

The musicianship in Ireland is outstanding, and sessions are often fast. Be extremely respectful if you're curious about trying to join a session. Spend time listening first and ask yourself if you can realistically keep up. If the answer is no, buy a drink, enjoy a fabulous listening experience, and soak up some practice inspiration. If the answer is yes, then always ask the players before joining them and be respectful of the answer you're given. Also make sure you ask before sitting so that you don't inadvertently take someone's seat. Be careful about sitting in the "inner circle" or wherever the prime seats are. These are usually reserved for regulars and highly proficient players.

Hopefully you'll find these tips useful if you're planning a trip to Ireland. Safe travels, enjoy the journey, and remember to drive on the left!

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